On Broad Street in Lagos Island lies Freedom Park, a testament to resilience and redemption, where the echoes of Nigeria’s past intertwine with the spirit of its present.
The first time I visited Freedom Park was one curious night, in 2021. I went to watch a play at the small theatre. I was particularly fascinated by the lighting and decor and how it melded with the night time ambiance. This got me thinking about how it would appear during the day.
Two years later, I decided to revisit the park to explore it further. Before heading out, I conducted some research. I discovered that the park, located on a prime location in Lagos Island, had a historical past—it used to be a prison during Nigeria’s colonial era.
Her Majesty’s Prisons, also known as the Broad Street Prisons, held some of Nigeria’s most prominent activists and nationalists, including Sir Herbert Macaulay, Chief Obafemi Awolowo, Chief Lateef Jakande, and Michael Imoudu. They all spent time there due to their political beliefs and activism.
The prison also held Esther Johnson, infamous for murdering her expatriate lover, Mark Hall, in 1953. She discovered that he had used the £400 she loaned him for her business to marry an English bride.
Freedom Park, once a symbol of confinement and oppression, now stands as a beacon of liberty and cultural discovery.
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From Ruins to Reconstruction
Several decades after Nigeria gained independence, the Broad Street Prisons was left abandoned, eventually becoming a haven for criminals. In 1998, a group of architects united under the banner of CIA (formerly Creative Intelligence Agency and now Cultural Intellectual Association) came together to initiate a project as the millennium year approached.
Nigerian architect, Theo Lawson, conceived the park’s design with the goal of preserving the freedom stories and cultural heritage of the former Lagos prison. The project was submitted in 1999 during the administration of former Lagos State Governor, Bola Ahmed Tinubu.
However, action remained dormant until the administration of former Lagos State Governor, Babatunde Fashola, who became keen on revitalising the project to conserve Nigeria’s history and cultural heritage, marking the nation’s 50th-anniversary independence celebration in October 2010.
More than a decade later, this park has flourished into a national memorial, historical landmark, cultural site, and an arts and recreation center, attracting tourists from around the globe.
All you need to know about Freedom Park
The entrance fee is N500, granting access to all areas within the park. For first-time visitors, I recommend opting for the tour ticket priced at N1500. This ticket includes the services of a tour guide who will accompany you throughout the park, providing detailed explanations of its history.
Accompanied by my tour guide, Daniel, we began at the renovated prison cells, now transformed into stalls for traders during festivals. We then proceeded to the food court and lounge area, formerly the prison kitchen, now named Esther’s Revenge in honor of Esther Johnson, a former inmate.
Moving from the lounge area, we visited the pond area, home to tiny Tilapia fish, alongside the original well from the old prison site.
I appreciate how each building in this park preserves the rich history of the old site, fulfilling Lawson’s earlier vision. During our tour, we circled around the pond and eventually reached the theatre space, formerly the women’s section of the prison.
While discussing the tragic tale of Esther Johnson, we ascended to the mini museum, featuring an art gallery on the lower floor and a comprehensive historical collection of the Lagos Broad Street Prisons on the upper floor.
Exploring the museum was captivating, especially witnessing the recreated prison room with its narrow bed, Bible, stainless bucket serving as a toilet, and a small window for ventilation. Stepping out of the museum, I was guided to an iron bridge, an artistic monument adorned with skeletal frames reflecting the prisoners’ anguish.
I was also taken to the area where prisoners on death row were executed, now reconstructed as the main stage for shows and events.
As I wandered through its meticulously preserved grounds, guided by the voice of my tour guide, Daniel, I couldn’t help but marvel at the ingenuity of its restoration.
From the somber remnants of prison cells to the lively energy of its performance spaces, every corner of the park pulsates with the courageous and sad stories of those who once walked its halls.
With each step, I felt a deeper connection to the struggles and triumphs of Nigeria’s past, and a renewed appreciation for the power of collective memory.
The tour concluded at the food court, following a stroll down to the park’s garden, where I took a few photos by the vintage Lagos ‘Molue’ bus.
While the park lacks playgrounds for children, they can still enjoy playing around the garden area. Despite this, it offers a valuable educational environment for both children (aged 9 and above) and adults to delve into the colonial history of Lagos.
The park hosts various activities and events, ranging from musical concerts, book readings to theatre performances and festivals. You can stay updated on upcoming events by checking their social media pages and websites.
As I bid farewell to Freedom Park, I carried with me not just memories, but a profound sense of gratitude for the visionaries who transformed ruins into a living testament to freedom.
